If you want to be growing food that you eat, grow potatoes. It is a high yield, easy to grow crop. Plus, potatoes store well for months. A must-have in the garden.
We do not share the view that potatoes are bad for you, just because they are starchy. Potatoes are yummy and good for you. Since potatoes are on the dirty dozen list, it is worth it to grow them at home.
To write up a how-to guide on growing potatoes is almost impossible. There are so many ways to grow potatoes, it really depends on your preference and situation. Find what works best for you and grow potatoes.
In a supermarket you can get the impression that there are just two potato varieties: red or white. In reality there are many very different varieties in color, texture, and taste. Also early, mid season, and late. Some store better than others. To get inspired take a look at Eagle Creek, a potato seed farm just north of us, offering over 40 different potato varieties.
We like to grow Norland potatoes – an early variety. They grow well here in our short summers and store well. Purple Caribe – mid season. Satiny blue-purple skin; whiter-than-white flesh. Mmm! German Butterball – a late variety. Fantastic buttery flavor in these oval heirloom potatoes. Great for eating fresh or for storing throughout the winter.
Yukon Gold – mid season variety is another great potato. Also a great yellow potato is Bintje, it was my father’s favorite. If you want something really exotic, grow Russian Blue. Those dark purple potatoes taste just like a good potato should. As you see, there are lots of exciting potatoes to grow and to enjoy.
Potatoes love to grow. Whenever they get even a little bit of light they start growing those long shoots. You did not know? Well, that’s because you have been eating heavily treated potatoes. Those do not grow. But a real potato is a seed and wants to grow. Yes, every potato by design is a seed potato. But since not every potato has been grown naturally and is healthy, it is a good idea to get good seed potatoes.
You can easily save your own seed potato. Healthy, medium sized potatoes make great seed potatoes. Also green potatoes, that are not good for food but store well, make good seed potatoes. Every few years, if the production decreases, you can bring in new seed potatoes. Seed potatoes can be prepared by Pre-sprouting & Cutting Seed Potatoes. This is not a must, but can help.
Potatoes can be grown in many different ways. In fact, I do not think there is a right or wrong way to grow potatoes. It mostly depends on your possibilities and preference.
Traditionally potatoes are planted in rows 3ft apart (1m). The space between potatoes within a row depends on the variety. Early varieties can be planted close together (6″-10″), as they tend to have a low number of tubers per hill. Mid season varieties are generally planted 8″ to 12″ apart. Late Season Varieties & Fingerling Varieties should be planted 12″ apart or more. Once or twice during the growing season pull soil up around the stems of the potato plants to hill them. The loose soil helps the developing tubers to expand easily and prevent the potatoes from getting “green” from the sun.
Potatoes can also be hilled with straw, leaves, or soil building material. The pioneer in this easy mulching method was Ruth Stout, here’s her book: Gardening Without Work. However, to bury the seed potatoes a couple of inches into the soil seems to works better than just placing them on the soil and covering them with a thick layer of hay or straw. You can read all about it at: Better hens and gardens. It seems that there is no limit to the mulch that can be used to hill potatoes, as long as it is organic. Why not hill them with garden waste, turn your potato bed into a passive compost pile. They will not mind and grow tall and cover the mess nicely.
Potatoes can also be grown in containers. The idea is to fill the container half full, plant potatoes and fill up the soil as the potatoes grow. See this enormous harvest of container grown potatoes. All kinds of containers, bags, or tires can be used. The Old World Garden Farms adapted the growing of potatoes “container style” to a more natural way. They created Potato Crates from non-treated pallet wood – and were very surprised with the results! Read about it here.
Last but not least, the simplest way to grow potatoes is the Under wood chips way (See link, start at 10:38). Under wood chip mulch, potatoes do not need to be hilled, or weeded, or dug up. Everything is done by hand. It is even possible to be harvesting and planting potatoes the same day.
Colorado Potato Beetle
Thankfully we do not have to deal with this problem here at Northern Homestead. But, we did make some experiences with CPB in our year living in Virginia. Spraying the beetles was part of Jakobs job in the summer. It was not our garden, so Jakob just did what he was told to do, but could clearly see that it did not work. The potatoes died before the beetles did.
We visited a great gardener in the next town and ware amazed to see that her garden didn’t have the beetle problem. She simply was knocking the larva off the plants, instead of picking or spraying them. It seemed that she got them early on (you can easily judge the larval stage they’re at by appearance), they’d have a hard to impossible time of getting back on the plants. In the morning she would quickly shake out rows of plants, and not see a return of Colorado potato beetles.
As soon as potato plants start to flower (by the way, those are beautiful flowers, and first potato plants were known only as flowers before people knew that the tubers are so yummy), there are some young potatoes underneath that can be harvested. You can pull those potatoes, without killing the plant. When the plant finishes flowering and starts to die back, the potatoes are ready to be harvested. If possible, choose a dry period to harvest potatoes. Now it really does make a difference what method was used to grow them. The traditional method will involve hard work to dig all those potatoes up. Maybe that is the reason why so many easier ways have been developed, to eliminate all the back breaking digging. No matter how you get them out, try not to stab any. Here a 800g potato (28,2oz), and a 250g carrot that we grew at the farm garden.
Potatoes can be stored for months. We often eat the last ones in summer, just before harvesting fresh potatoes. Let the tubers dry out a bit (just for an hour or two), before storing them. Do not leave potatoes for days in light, even worse under sun light. They will get green. Also do not wash the potatoes, they will store better for you if you don’t. Give them a week or two for drying or “curing” in a warmish (about 60F) but dark place. This will help to heal any cuts or bruises, and make the skin stronger for long time storage. This often happens naturally for us, since our storage room tends to be warmer before winter conditions set in. After the curing potatoes need a cool (35 -40F) dark place. Even though we find that the dark is more important than the temperature. When potatoes start sprouting, and they will, take those sprouts off. It will help them to stay firm longer. I often go twice through all the potatoes to get rid of unwanted sprouts.
Potatoes are a yummy and nutritious vegetables as long as you do not boil them out in lots of salty water. Think about it, if you brew yourself some tea, you drink the tea and throw out the leaves. If you cook yourself some potatoes, you eat the potatoes and throw out the water. What is the difference? How much do you think gets lost if you boil something for 20 minutes? Just like other vegetables, potatoes do taste best steamed. See how to steam vegetables without a steamer.
Here are some yummy potato recipes we love:
What is your favourite way to enjoy potatoes?